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All of these after market motors are pretty much the same and are of really good quality. The problem most folks are having that have had their frig for many years is with aluminum to copper arcing from the defroster elements and the copper contact points timer/motor module we are buying. it is not the timer / motor fault... I ruined 2 units before finding the problem..... And if you have a refrigerator with 10 years of run time you probably are having the same problem when replacing them, in that, they last 3 to 6 months (or less) and we blame cheap china crap..... Before you install the timer module (after you pulled the old one off - frig unplugged), visually inspect the 2 defroster pins that protrude out the bottom of the mating side of the ice maker in the frig. Look for black carbon build up which will occur from aluminum to copper arcing over the years because the frig manufactures were too lazy to use the grey anti-oxidation compound that is required by the NEC when using dissimilar metals. Every 2 hours, the timer energizes the defrost elements and over time it the aluminum reaction with the copper cause some oxidation, which over time starts causing arcing, which then cause burnt carbon, increasing the resistance and burning holes in the copper substrate of the time/motor connection points (then it is damage beyond repair). Inspect: make sure both pins of the defroster are sticking out at the same distance first and none of them are pushed back. Look underneath the ice maker and make sure the aluminum defrost element is securely flush in the channel. With an ohm meter, ohm out the defrost element an look for resistance (72 ohms is a nominal but it can vary - it should not be open and read ZERO) or the element is truly bad. If you have black carbon on the ends of the defrost element. you will have to remove the ice maker and pull the element out and sand the contacts. You need to inspect the element insulation compound (black or grey) that is added to the end of the element where it contacts the plastic and punches through the contact hole. If fit is falling apart, then mix JB weld 5 minute Metal type epoxy (it can take/dissipate the heat) and with a toothpick, rebuild around it carefully not to oversize or you half to sand it down. Btw: look at the old motor assembly you just removed with a magnifying glass and a light and look at the 2 copper contact points on the motor timer that the defrost element inserts into.... If there is any black carbon, pitting or holes, your problem is again in the aluminum defroster element to copper connection. Grab the NEW motor assembly and with a small straight slot screwdriver (jewlers screwdriver works) bend each of the contacts (2 each side) Inward just a little to make a tight fit on the defrost pin...fit check it with the defroster element before you put it back in. to make sure it is a tight fit and will not too tight so that it bend the contract forward (and it will not go in).... be careful not to get to much of the thermal compound that they use between the element and the aluminum freezing tray (it will look white or yellow from age - this compound is different from anti-ox - defroster to ice tray is a thermal contact to better conduct heat whereas the anti oxidation compound you put at the end of the pins is to keep copper and aluminum from reacting dissimilar metal contact). Reinsert everything. lightly Coat the defrost pin and the motor copper matting section that that it contacts with the on the motor module with anti-Oxidation compounds (Lowes electrical section) with your finger and then install the motor module back on the ice maker assembly. Hook up power and it should work unless you have a bad water/ice pump dual valve relay.... what I did, is get an insulated wire jumper (14 or 12 gage) and insert it into the T & H test points until you hear a click and then you can remove it..... the motor /timer will take you through a full ice sequence and it will fill the tray with water (just a little bit of water because it is moving the time really fast 1 minute vice 2hrs). if the motor is running and it puts a little bit of water in the ice tray and the defrost element checked good, you will have a reliable system for years....if you don't do this you will keep burning up the contacts over short periods of time and eventually you may have a fire in the ice box if the arcing get too bad. The national electrical code should have required refrigerator manufactures coat their aluminum to copper contacts with anti-OXY but they don't...… Please don't forget this step when you do you inspection. btw you can check you water valve at pins N-V (look for 150~350Ohms), and the Thermal sensor at pins T&L (look for zero ohms without ice and for it to have continuity if you have ice in the bottom of the aluminum form, Check timer motor at pins L&M (look for ~4400 ohms)…. Do all this with power off) …..or just jump timer at pins T&H and watch the motor move for yourself (power on for this step) -Sharing since I went through replace about 5 motors over the years (and I went back and checked all the motor and the motor itself on all the old units I replaced were good and I found the burnt defroster contact points on everyone of them) and as you would expect I am an Electrical Engineer and I should have known better before burning up the contacts on all these motors and figure the aluminum - to copper was the problem ...especially given the condensation environment in the freezer where it is even more aggravated ... I even bought a extra insurance form Square Trade (just recently) because I thought all these motors were such crap and it turned out to be the carbon build up on the defroster pins all alongAfter replacing the ice maker twice. I have lived without ice for two years.Giving it one more look, I took off the control module and found a burned connector and the copper channel inside had broken off. Who would have thought a thirty dollar fix would solve my problem. Let there be ice!I have an amana French door refrigerator model number AFI 2539 ERM O1. This refrigerator was way too expensive for the problems that it has caused. This seems to be a very common issue. I was able to replace it in literally five minutes with no mechanical experience. Pull out your ice bucket, takeoff the plate harness cover on the left-hand side be sure to put a screwdriver in the hole and push down to unclip it first, unplug the harness pull out the unit. Take off the shutoff arm on the right Take off white cover to expose the module, it’s a little difficult so use a little force and rock-it up and down, undo three screws and unplug the black thing under the dial. Flip up the ice cams to align the new module on, put the three screws back in plug the black thing back in under the dial snap the white cover back on making sure not to pinch any of the wires. Put your ice shutoff arm back on, shove the icemaker back until you hear a click in the back and plug the harness back in. Put your harness plate back on and put your ice bucket back in… Done. I’m pretty sure that I could’ve unplugged the refrigerator and replaced the module without pulling out the whole icemaker. Now I know this baby backwards and forwards! As a side note if the contact pin burned like mine in the picture, clean it first with rubbing alcohol and an emery board. Don’t worry if it doesn’t cycle right away it took about an hour before I got my first drop of ice. Don’t keep checking it it Has to get to a certain temperature in there to get going. Mine is set at 0°I have a Kitchenaid counter depth refrigerator made in 2011. The icemaker is located in the refrigerator section, not the freezer as this fridge has a bottom load freezer and the top is all refrigerator. The icemaker stopped making ice a few days ago and before calling a repairman and being fairly handy I looked into trying to figure out the problem myself. The icemaker is not easy to remove and I couldn't find any online videos pertinent to my model. After quite a bit of time I was able to remove the icemaker. Again back to online tutorials. I found that most of the problems with icemakers have to do with the control module located on the front of the unit. I was able to test the function of the module and the water supply solenoid by using a jumper wire and accessing the points on the front of the module (all of the info for this can be found online). I was glad to find that the water supply solenoid was functioning fine. The module however wasn't. Testing this required me to reinstall the icemaker as it needs power in order to test it. The module has 3 screws that attach it to the icemaker. Once I removed the module and examined it I saw that one of the contact points (to the heater coil) was badly burned. Looking online I saw that this was a very common problem due to the use of copper contacts and an aluminum heating coil (dissimilar metals). I felt that I needed a new module and started looking at them online. It seems that most of these modules are universal and fit most icemakers. After comparing pictures of my old module and the ones that I saw I went to Amazon and found this one for about $30. I ordered it and it showed up a couple of days later. I also ordered a tube of Gardner Bender OX-100B compound for about $3.50. This is used to increase compatibility between the copper contacts on the module and the aluminum heater coil. Once I received the module and compound it was a 5 minute fix. I reinstalled the icemaker and shortly after I heard the sound of the icemaker calling for water and in an hour I had a batch of ice. Woke up this morning to a full bin of ice. For about $35 I saved what probably would have been a service call of $300 or more. If you are comfortable attempting a repair and with the help of Youtube you can easily fix the icemaker problems yourself. In most cases you do NOT need a new icemaker but just this control module.1 It only makes 4 ice cubes.2 I got more and paid for more than I asked for.3 I complained and you did nothing!4 when my computer gets here I'm requesting an RMA5 I'll never use your service again and I will continue to tell others and post not to use your service !!worksAs stated
